Guides & inspiration

Split to Dubrovnik via two islands: the balanced first-timer's itinerary, with the exact ferry links and the right pace.

Weather, crowds and mood month by month, to pick the right window for what you're coming for.

Waterfalls, archipelagos and mountains: the full tour of Croatia's protected areas, with the time to allow and the right gateway for each.

Hvar, Brač, Vis, Korčula, Mljet: the Dalmatian islands' characters compared, without the clichés, to find yours.

Ferries, catamarans and long-distance buses: what actually works for travelling down the coast and island-hopping, and what to book.

Istrian truffles, Dalmatian peka, Ston oysters: what to order, where to order it, and the wines to go with it.

Six entrances twenty kilometres apart, one ticket valid for all of them: how to turn the usual two hours at Skradinski buk into a full day on the river.

A million and a half visitors a year on a few kilometres of boardwalk: the only variable that matters is the hour. Entrance 1 or 2, the routes, the timed ticket, where to sleep — the how-to.

Debit card refused, €1,500 excess, border fees, ferry not allowed: travellers' stories always tell the same disappointments. Here is how to avoid them, point by point.

The map promises 50 km in forty minutes; the coast takes an hour and a quarter. The guide to sizing an itinerary that holds — and choosing bases rather than stops.

Between Zadar and Šibenik: a riviera of villages, a lake, an archipelago of bare stone, two national parks and prices that have nothing to do with Split. The best base camp in Croatia, and the least known.

April or October, prices drop and the crowds vanish — but so do the boats, the parks and half the restaurants. A precise sort of what works, what runs at half speed and what is shut.